The Salvages represent a fascinating intersection of alternative culture and fashion, blending elements from 70s punk and 80s deconstructionism. This unique subculture has gained attention for its innovative approach to salvage clothing and its impact on modern style. The Salvages movement challenges conventional fashion norms and embraces a DIY ethos that resonates with many young creatives today.
This article explores the roots and evolution of the Salvages, tracing its origins from the punk scene of the 1970s to its current manifestation. It examines the DIY approach that defines the movement, the influence of deconstructionism on its esthetic, and how the Salvages have shaped contemporary subcultural fashion. By delving into this distinctive style, we gain insight into the ongoing dialog between counterculture and mainstream fashion trends.
DIY Ethos: From 70s Punk to Modern Fashion
Origins in punk subculture
The DIY ethos has its roots in the punk subculture of the 1970s. Punk emerged as an anarchic and aggressive movement in London, with about 200 young people defining themselves as an anti-fashion urban youth street culture. This movement was a response to the institutional structure that was suffocating the lower classes. Punks used their visibility as a weapon to counteract the stagnant situation, exploiting fashion to stand out and make their voices heard through their appearance.
The punk esthetic was based on a fierce spirit of originality that led to a spirit of customization and 'Do it Yourself' for the punks. This DIY approach suited those with limited cash due to unemployment and the general low-income school leavers or students often experience. Punks would cut up old clothes from charity and thrift shops, destroy the fabric, and refashion outfits in a manner then thought of as a crude construction technique.
Evolution and mainstream adoption
As punk fashion evolved, it began to influence mainstream culture and high-end fashion. Designers like Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren played a significant role in popularizing punk esthetics through their shop 'Sex' on King's Road, London. They sold leather and rubber fetish goods, especially bondage trousers, which became iconic in punk fashion.
The DIY ethos of punk fashion defined four expressions of styles: "Hardware," "Bricolage," "Graffiti and Agitprop," and "Destroy". These elements were adopted and reinterpreted by high-end designers, blurring the lines between punk and haute couture. For instance, Zandra Rhodes, a British dress designer, took elements of the punk style and used it in her collections, making refined and more elegant versions in bright colors which were more acceptable to the rich and famous.
The Salvages' interpretation of DIY
The Salvages represent a new chapter in the evolution of DIY fashion, blending elements from 70s punk and 80s deconstructionism. This movement challenges conventional fashion norms and embraces a DIY ethos that resonates with many young creatives today. The Salvages' approach to salvage clothing aligns with the growing interest in customizing, upcycling, and reconstructing clothes, especially amid the Covid-19 pandemic.
Young people are increasingly drawn to the creative ecosystem of DIY fashion and resale, which serves Gen Z well as a generation that prizes individuality, ethical concerns, and 'access over possession' when it comes to goods. The pandemic has accelerated this hobby, with tie-dye becoming a quarantine trend proliferated by tutorials on Gen Z favorite platforms YouTube and TikTok.
The Salvages' interpretation of DIY fashion taps into the desire for unique, handmade, and sustainable clothing. This approach allows for a more personal connection to fashion, where the evidence of individualized labor, time, thought, and artistry is proudly displayed in the garments. The DIY movement also aligns with the growing consciousness among consumers, who are breaking away from the tiresome monotony of fast fashion and the big industry machine.
As the fashion industry adapts to these changes, some brands are already embracing the DIY ethos. For example, workwear brand Dickies sent its Dickies Girl collection to design duo Zig Zag Goods for them to rework pieces on Instagram Live. This collaboration shows an understanding of their younger community and their need for unique clothes. Similarly, contemporary menswear brand A-Cold-Wall is allowing consumers to make their own A-Cold-Wall clothes with its Service Point 1 initiative.
The Salvages movement represents a new frontier in fashion, where the DIY model has prevailed as a kind of panacea to fashion industry ills. It offers a path for smaller labels to move to the forefront, producing from home or in small-scale studios and selling their garments directly to customers on Instagram and digital marketplaces.
Deconstructionism: Challenging Fashion Norms
Theoretical foundations
Deconstructionism in fashion has its roots in the broader intellectual movement that originated in philosophy with Jacques Derrida. This concept dismisses the idea of fixed meanings and stable structures, challenging established forms and meanings linked to traditional garment construction. In fashion, deconstructionism aims to dismantle binary oppositions and hierarchies, emphasizing the interplay between seemingly opposing elements.
The philosophy behind deconstructionism in fashion embraces the notion that clothing can possess a fluid, evolving nature, remaining open to reinterpretation. This approach questions conventional ideas about how garments should be constructed, blurring distinctions between high and low fashion, formal and casual wear, and other traditional fashion dichotomies.
Manifestation in 80s fashion
Deconstruction fashion emerged as a significant phenomenon during the late 1980s and early 1990s. This design philosophy and esthetic movement shifted away from traditional garment construction to embrace a more unconventional and avant-garde approach. The trend gained popularity with Japanese fashion house Comme des Garçons and French fashion house Maison Martin Margiela.
Martin Margiela, a pivotal figure in deconstruction fashion, had twin obsessions with dissection and reconstruction, embodying the philosophy of dismantling binary oppositions. His designs were groundbreaking, featuring elements like sweaters with removable arms, garments with unfinished hems, and seams finished on the outside. These creations challenged the established norms of fashion while maintaining a strong reverence for traditional tailoring.
Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons also played a crucial role in shaping deconstructionist fashion. Her designs questioned ideals of the female body and redefined notions of feminine domesticity. Kawakubo's work, such as the 1997 "Bumps and Lumps" show, presented female bodies with "grotesque" protuberances, challenging conventional beauty standards and inviting a rethinking of perceptions of beauty.
Contemporary interpretations
Today, deconstruction has become an integral part of fashion, influencing both high-end collections and street-inspired clothing. The line between perfection and imperfection has blurred, with deconstruction details found across various fashion segments. This anti-fashion movement has, ironically, become part of today's fashion norm.
The salvages movement represents a new frontier in fashion, where the DIY model has emerged as a response to fashion industry challenges. This approach allows smaller labels to move to the forefront, producing from home or in small-scale studios and selling their garments directly to customers on digital platforms. The salvages interpretation of deconstructionism taps into the desire for unique, handmade, and sustainable clothing, aligning with the growing consciousness among consumers who are breaking away from the monotony of fast fashion.
The Salvages: A New Chapter in Subcultural Fashion
Brand philosophy and esthetic
The Salvages, a Singapore-based apparel brand, represents a unique fusion of alternative culture and fashion. Founded by Earn Chen and Nicolette Yip in 2016, the brand has its roots in the punk movement that originated in the UK. The Salvages takes on projects based on personal interest rather than as a business, distancing itself from conventional fashion industry practices. This approach aligns with the brand's socio-cultural philosophy, which emphasizes the importance of cultural heritage and subcultural influences.
The brand's esthetic is deeply influenced by 70s subversive culture and 80s deconstructionism. The Salvages aims to take the past as the main pillar of the brand, creating a unique blend of nostalgia and contemporary style. This approach has resulted in collections that are both a celebration of alternative rock icons and a tribute to cult bands such as Spaceman 3 and Suicide.
Impact on contemporary fashion landscape
The Salvages has made a significant impact on the contemporary fashion landscape, particularly in the realm of alternative and subcultural fashion. The brand's approach to salvage clothing has resonated with many young creatives, offering a fresh perspective on fashion that challenges conventional norms.
One of the key contributions of The Salvages has been its role in bridging the gap between vintage fashion and contemporary style. The brand started as a store selling vintage items from collection brands such as Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, Raf Simons, and Helmut Lang, attracting a clientele that included celebrities. This foundation in vintage fashion has informed the brand's original creations, resulting in a unique blend of past and present.
The Salvages has also played a role in bringing subcultural fashion into the mainstream. By collaborating with various bands and presenting collections tied to alternative culture, the brand has helped to popularize elements of punk and alternative rock fashion. This approach has contributed to the ongoing dialog between counterculture and mainstream fashion trends.
Salvages and The Salvages
The Salvages movement has a profound influence on contemporary fashion, blending elements from 70s punk and 80s deconstructionism to create a unique esthetic. This innovative approach to salvage clothing resonates with young creatives, challenging conventional fashion norms and embracing a DIY ethos. The movement's impact extends beyond style, addressing issues of sustainability and individuality in the fashion industry.
As we look to the future, The Salvages offers a fresh perspective on fashion that values cultural heritage and subcultural influences. By bridging the gap between vintage and contemporary style, the brand has carved out a distinctive niche in the fashion landscape. This new chapter in subcultural fashion not only honors the past but also pushes boundaries, shaping the ongoing dialog between counterculture and mainstream fashion trends.